Flatland Rounding Hammer

Flatland Forge
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Available in two sizes.

Made in Texas by Jim Poor. Great care goes into the custom heat treating of these hammers. They are tempered back to be slightly softer through the bodies, and then hardened only on the striking ends. This 3 step process takes more time, but results in less vibration, and shock, with each blow of the hammer. The handles have been designed to be slightly longer than most so the user can cut them off to the desired length.

Item #: 1.75LB and 2LB

Flatland Forge tools are made of S-7, shock resistant air hardened tool steel. Each tool is hardened ONLY on the working end's, while the striking surface has been tempered back (or made slightly softer). This unique feature is primarily for safety.

With normal use, these tools are designed to mushroom slightly at the striking end of the tool (or top of the tool), and should be dressed back with a file or grinder depending on amount of use. We soften, (or temper) the tops of the tools to reduce the chances of chips flying off the tool when struck by an off (or wild) blow from a hardened hammer face. It takes a little more time and expertise, but we feel, the safer the tool, the better.

The working ends of the tools are hardened for maximum wear. This does not mean that they will last forever! But, with regular care and maintenance, these tools should last you a long time. So keep the working end of the tool COOL as you drive it into hot steel. Don't let the tools get extremely dull, keep them sharp by using a file. Don't drive them into the anvil. Hit them solid and square. Off blows from the hammer are usually the reason forging tools get wrecked.


Warranty
We will warranty our tools against manufacturing defects by gladly replacing any tool that has chips on the striking surface of the tool and handles that break at the weld.

Not Covered:
Chips on the working end of the tools are caused by driving the tool into the anvil. If the tool has not been to badly damaged, it can be dressed back with a file.

Mushrooming on the working end is caused by the tool being to hot. Keep the tools cool by constantly dipping them in a quench medium such as forshner's, bees wax, or soap. Do not under any circumstance use water. If the tool has not been deformed excessively, it can be dressed back with a file to a functional tool again.